929 Evo - 2012 Season Build/Reconfigure

[boomn29]

Greetings everyone. I had a few people recommend I do somewhat of a build thread for the 2012 season, so here it is. It's not a true 'build' as the car is in great running/working condition currently, so it'll be somewhat more of a reconfigure based on updates, upgrades and rules for 2012. Expect some good details and a lot of pics as things progress... If anyone has any questions, comments or advice don't be afraid to post up!

First of all, if you'd like some background on the car and what I do with it, check the thread out below. It's got some background along with lots of pics and vid specifically from 2011. If you want more details; goto the source which is my blog (in my sig)
http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...1-Season-Recap

For 2012:
Like every year - I plan to run the car in various Time Trial events mostly around the midwest. I prep the car according to the NASA TT ruleset and run mainly with the Midwest and Great Lakes regions although I try to travel to some much further tracks/regions during the year as funds and schedules permit. More on this at things develop!

[boomn29]

I figured I should start with an explanation of NASA TT. NASA (National Auto Sport Association) TT (Time Trials) are a way for street legal cars to compete on track for the single fastest lap in their class. Let's start with a fancy video - ya might recognize one of the cars:



The goal is to take your vehicle; find you baseclass and baseweight. Then pick a class, pick a mix of mods using the allowed points and compete for the single fastest lap of the day. It's that simple. NASA TT runs with the unlimited open passing rules, meaning you can pass anyone anywhere at anytime (provided it's a safe clean pass, etc). So you have the potential of going 2-wide through corners, running 2ft off someones bumper or maybe not seeing any traffic for several laps! It all depends on the track, the session, and your grid position (front-to-back) on the entire group.
Naturally not all cars are competitive in every class and certain cars can be 'ringers' in certain classes. But most cars have a sweet spot in a certain class or 2. What are those classes?

From the slowest to the fastest:

• TTF - slow....
• TTE - Think Civic SI, Spec Miata
• TTD - Think e30 M3, ITR, late 90's Mustangs
• TTC - Think S2000, SRT4, Cobalt SS, e36 M3
• TTB - Think M3's, stockish Evo/STi, Mustangs, base C5 Vettes, base Caymans
• TTA - Think C5 Z06 Vettes, modded Evo/STi, modded e46 M3's, modded S4's, turbo Miatas, base 911's
• TTS - 8.7:1 power/weight ratio class. Think Corvettes, Audi's, Mustangs, GT3, e46 M3, modded Evo's and STI's
• TTU - 5.5:1 power/weight ratio class. Think Vipers, Z06's, Ferrari, and heavily modded 500+hp cars
• TTR - completely unlimited. Listers, Radicals, etc

So TTA-TTF are the normal classes. Normal meaning they have to count their mod points. TTS-TTU simply have to hit the legal power/weight ratio and TTR is anything goes. Needless to say, the last 3 classes can get really expensive as there's no limit to the type of engine mods or fancy 4-way remote suspension or aero - the 3 more expensive avenues!

New for 2009, each class has been assigned a minimum “Adjusted” Weight/Power ratio. Regardless of how many points a car has, or which base class it begins in, it may not exceed the minimum “Adjusted” Weight/Power ratio for its competition class. Any vehicle found competing with an “Adjusted” Weight/Power ratio less than the minimum level assigned below will be disqualified.

NASA TT Official website: http://www.nasa-tt.com/

There's some strategy involved in NASA TT. Technically you could go out and turn 1 single flying lap and win for the day. Or you could be in last place all day making changes little by little and turn the winning lap in the final session to come from behind. There's also external factors that can screw up a good strategy like changing weather conditions, lap traffic, broken parts, scheduling issues, not making your base weight or even filling out your classification forms improperly!

The new for 2009 class power/weight ratio limits:

• TTR --> with unlimited power/weight & mods
• TTU 5.50:1 --> with unlimited mods
• TTS 8.70:1 --> with unlimited mods
• TTA 8.70:1
• TTB 10.25:1
• TTC 12.00:1
• TTD 14.25:1
• TTE 16.50:1
• TTF 19.50:1

[boomn29]

As I mentioned, every car gets a base class and weight. From there they pick/choose the best mods possible to MAX the car out for the class. However, you do have the option to UPclass or DOWNclass depending on what type and how many mods you do.

Up-Classing System (TTF-TTA only)
Modifications and Point Assessments:
If your car accrues 20 or more points you will be bumped up in Class. There is no limit on the number of classes you can bump up - a car with a high level of modifications might move up several Classes.

20 thru 39 points - Up ONE Class
40 thru 59 points - Up TWO Classes
60 thru 79 points - Up THREE Classes
etc

Where do the EVO models baseclass (aka start)?
See below. My car is bolded.

Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII ('03-'05)(AWD) TTC** 3263
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII MR ('05)(AWD) TTB 3263
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo IX ('06)(AWD) TTB 3263
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo RS ('06)(AWD) TTB 3219
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo MR ('06)(AWD) TTB* 3285
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X GSR (2008 (AWD) TTB* 3500
Mitsubishi Lancer Evo X MR (2008 (AWD) TTB** 3500

Note: One (1) asterisk * on a base class assignment denotes a 7 point initial assessment, and two
(2) asterisks ** denotes a 14 point initial assessment that is added to the total number of
modification points to determine the final competition class. This is done to provide more initial classing options for the multitude of cars out there.

[boomn29]

I'm pretty happy with NASA and with the NASA National Championships being at Mid Ohio in 2012 it seems like the logical choice once again. So at this point I'm currently waiting for the 2012 NASA Ruleset to be released. Determining the class determines how to prep the car, what mods, what tires, the power level, retunes, etc. We ran in TTA in 2011 and barring any drastic changes we'll run TTA again.

I've thought about bumping up yet another class and running TTS as well as racing w2w in either PTA or ST2 (which mirror the rulesets of TTA and TTS respectively). To put this in more detail:

• TTA/PTA - 8.70:1 'adjusted' power/weight ratio --> My Evo fits here with 34 'mod' pts available and runs at 3259 lbs
  
  The rulesets for the TT (Time Trial) series and the PT (Performance Touring) series are actually the same. The only difference being w2w racing in the latter.
• TTS/ST2 - 8.70:1 'adjusted' power/weight ratio --> with unlimited mods
  
  The alternative is ST2 (Super Touring 2); which mirrors the build of TTS as an unlimited mod, unlimited aero, unlimited suspension class with an 8.7:1 ratio.

[JTEVO2932]

Great info! I am going to look into this more, I would really like to get into it! Good luck this year, cant wait for more updates.

[mullen]

wow, alot of info here

[boomn29]

Here's some progression shots through the years:
2007 at Gateway; stock suspension!


Hauling Toyo RA1 tires to/from the track; from 2008:


Winter 2008 Rollbar, coilovers and harnesses install:




2009; first event with the trailer and Hoosiers:


Winter 2011 brake maintenance, driveline fluids, coilover swap, intercooler swap, seat remount etc.



2011 on track (testing aero setups):


And finally winter 2012; as it sat about 1 month ago...

[boomn29]

As with last winter, the biggest decision for 2012 is whether I'm going to race the car w2w in the following season. If so, it'll need a cage. It's a huge investment for the cage and likewise all the added maintenance and possibilities for on-track incidents grow exponentially.

Not knowing whether or not I'm going to cage the car, I decided to tear into it either way. If I want to cage it, I can save some $ by pulling the dash out myself. If I'm not caging it, I figure I can still save a little weight off the front of the car by gutting some of the dash. Anyone that's ever had an Evo on the scales knows it's heavy; especially on the front. Back in 2008 when I still had full interior, airbags, carpet, backseat, stock rims and street tires, etc it weighed in at > 3400 lbs with driver! Damn eh.
The bad part is once you start pulling weight; most of it comes from the rear of the car. The spare tire, the trunk carpet, the rear seats, rear speakers, etc. So it gets more front heavy. Then we add weight to the most severe front by upgrading FMIC's and/or adding front aero.

So any weight you can pull off the front half is extremely helpful. I think my car was something like 63% front biased last year with the weight! So time to try to work on that... Here's the start of that process.







Gauges out! I was very careful with these!




Box of parts removed to this point. I weighed it at like 12lbs to this point. Obviously some of this is going back in though, as a lot of it is plastic parts that cover the ugliness underneath! Note the gauges are NOT in the box.

[David Buschur]

Looking good, weight is tough to find a some point but you have a LOT you can take out still! Best of luck.

[boomn29]

Looking good, weight is tough to find a some point but you have a LOT you can take out still! Best of luck.

I hope so. I've only found about 20lbs so far that's for sure coming out and staying out. And if I do a splitter setup like I want to; most of that is going right back on the nose of the car!

[JTEVO2932]

Looks good! I need to take some stuff out from my dash also. I was looking into Autopower 6 point cage, could you run that? I think its NASA approved but I could be wrong or do you want to run something a little better than that

[boomn29]

Looks good! I need to take some stuff out from my dash also. I was looking into Autopower 6 point cage, could you run that? I think its NASA approved but I could be wrong or do you want to run something a little better than that

You could, but I probably wouldn't do it.

I do have an Autopower 4-pt rollbar in my car. And the 6pt bolt-in 'cage' they have connects to that. I get a lot of flak the way it is from a lot of track buddies that I don't have a full cage in the car now considering how fast I am / it is. It's been > 140mph on 3 separate tracks, but those 80-100mph turns where you have to fully commit and kick it sideways are the tricky ones!

[JTEVO2932]

You could, but I probably wouldn't do it.

I do have an Autopower 4-pt rollbar in my car. And the 6pt bolt-in 'cage' they have connects to that. I get a lot of flak the way it is from a lot of track buddies that I don't have a full cage in the car now considering how fast I am / it is. It's been > 140mph on 3 separate tracks, but those 80-100mph turns where you have to fully commit and kick it sideways are the tricky ones!

Yeah thats true, Are you just going to have someone make it then? If so is there any specs that they have to be to run in NASA

[boomn29]

Yeah thats true, Are you just going to have someone make it then? If so is there any specs that they have to be to run in NASA

IF I cage it, I've got a few places in mind. At the top of the list is Izzy's in St Louis (http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/). I've seen several of his cages and the welds are good. Plus he's done several for NASA as well as SCCA and Rally so he knows the different specs.

And as for specs; yes every organization has their requirements. The main ones being the type of attachment points and the overall thickness required for the bar being used. There's a lot of overlap, but you need to study the rules closely so you don't end up with a cage that's illegal!

[boomn29]

Some updated pics of the dash that's currently out of the car. It's kinda neat seeing how all the vent routing is done. The rectangular hole on the right is where the passenger side airbag was, it'd been covered with black tape but I'm planning on a bit better fix.



I've successfully pulled out 10lbs from under the dash. Hopefully I can find more. Although there's a lot more out of the car currently, a lot of the plastic will go back in so I'm not counting it yet.

What's permanently gone:

• Both front tweeters
• Drivers front door speaker
• Passenger airbag module (w/o airbag)
• Misc sound deadening I cut under the dash

[JTEVO2932]

IF I cage it, I've got a few places in mind. At the top of the list is Izzy's in St Louis (http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/). I've seen several of his cages and the welds are good. Plus he's done several for NASA as well as SCCA and Rally so he knows the different specs.

And as for specs; yes every organization has their requirements. The main ones being the type of attachment points and the overall thickness required for the bar being used. There's a lot of overlap, but you need to study the rules closely so you don't end up with a cage that's illegal!

Oh ok, good to know. I am going to look into that more I would like to cage my car but I dont want to waste money if its going to be wrong! Nice job under the dash, this build makes me want to go work on mine...keep up the good work!

[boomn29]

Well, without giving away any 2012 plans, here's a pic of the basement stockpile. Including corded, used, unused testfit samples and last months final contingency claims, I am now in possession of 25 Hoosiers! The newest ones are in the pic below, tagged and bagged and awaiting/begging to be used! There's also a stock of corded tires in the garage and some good/bad ones still mounted on the Evo.



Why the huge stockpile?
December brought the annual deadline to claim any leftover contingencies from Hoosier. The Hoosier/NASA contingency started in 2009 and has been insanely popular in the non-spec classes including TT (Time Trials) where the #929 Evo participates. And luckily another successful year left us with some tires to claim last month!

[JTEVO2932]

Holy shit, thats a lot of tires, good stuff!

[boomn29]

Updated pic of the car!


As of last week, I had yet to drain the radiator! And not wanting to take it off the trailer in the garage, I set about the task of pulling the bumper off and draining the radiator w/o jacking up the car. I did this successfully last year; remembering it was a pain. Yep; it was tight but I got it taking care of. Radiator has been refilled with 50/50 and ready for the winter finally.

I also pulled out a headlight to weigh it just because I was curious - 6.6 lbs. There's not a lot of room behind the driver's headlight for routing ducting to the brakes; which was my reasoning for possibly removing it. So, it's back on.

[boomn29]

Time for some organization! I actually created this list weeks; even months ago and have been adding to it little by little. It's pretty thorough at this point and will show how much thought process goes into a season before things even start. Keep in mind I do nearly all the work on the car except for things like the ECU tuning, trans/diff/clutch replacements, etc

The top bullets listed in bold take a helluva lot of time. I usually work up a huge spreadsheet with a ton of factors and options and change my mind about a zillion times!


To-Do list for 2012:

• Order 2011 Hoosier Contingency Tires (Dec 15th Deadline)
  
• Decide whether to cage the car for 2012
• Figure out class for 2012
• Figure out Configuration/mods for 2012
  • Figure out 2012 NASA TTA/TTS Config
  • Figure out Aero setup (if applicable)
  • Figure out 2012 Schedule
• Order 2012 AMSOIL Supply
• Retune @ ??
  
  • Tune for TTA/PTA - based off min weight of 3263
  • 2 Tunes for TTS/ST2 - based off different min weight and multiple tire sizes
• Order Driveline Fluids
  
  • Trans
  • ACD
  • Rear Diff
• Re-wrap downpipe?
• Camera install setup?
• Purchase helmet visor?
• Figure out fuel hauling setup - buy more jugs?
• Secure mount Traqmate display unit
• Remove more unneeded weight
• Weight & Redistribute weight/ballast as needed

Maintenance:

• Change oil/filter
• Flush Driveline Fluids (Trans, ACD, Rear-Diff)
• Flush radiator and refill with Antifreeze for winter
• Flush radiator and refill with distilled water in spring
• Order, possibly replace sparkplugs - ILFR7H plugs
• Dismount/Mount Tires
  
  • Dispose of worn/corded tires
• Fill tank with 100oct
• Flash back to 100oct
• Update/remove various stickers/decals on car
• Wash/Wax
• Brake system
  
  • Pull off Front Calipers and replace all seals and dustboots + inspection for stress issues (yearly)
  • Pull out backup set of front Calipers for full inspection
  • Switch in newer Front Calipers
  • Order front brake seal replacements
  • Replace seals in current (darker) front calipers for backups
  • Complete flush with fresh AMSOIL DOT4
  • Order fresh front rotors (rears are ok)
  • Order fresh front pads (rears are ok)
  • Verify extra set of rear pads
  • Possible replacement of LF ABS line; it's a bit melted!
  • Completely wrap ABS lines and sensors for heat protection
  • Remove or trim OEM brake dust shields?
  • Verify existing SS brake lines for wear/tear/cracks

Installs:

• Install APR Front splliter? - reinforce somehow?
• Install Kognition rear wing?
• Updated Alignment?
• Run new insanely huge brake cooling ducts (NACA?) from the front bumper
• Run new bigger & larger air cooling ducts - 3" would be great

Additions/Installs if caging & racing:

• Installation of Bigger/Better brake cooling ducts are a must
• Install a coolsuit setup or coolvest setup?
• Pull dash, gut behind dash
• Remove more unneeded weight
• Install Adequate fire system
• Install Window Nets
• Install MasterSwitch
• Gut door(s)
• Pull window glass - Fashion way to re-install windows during transport
• Install new wider rearview mirror
• Weigh & add ballast as needed
• Add rollbar padding as needed
• Obtain rain tire setup (Hoosier WETS or H2o's)
• Add additional engine Oil Cooler setup
• Redo front crash beam (lighten)