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Thread: 1990 talon knocking really bad ( have video link so you can listen)

  1. #1
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    Default 1990 talon knocking really bad ( have video link so you can listen)

    after a head gasket replace on my 1990 eagle talon tsi fwd turbo I could only start the car by pumping the gas and it had a really bad idle now I let the car sit for a couple days and now when I start it ( still pumping the gas) I get really bad fast knocking and it get faster and worse if you rev it even just the slightest and even after u stop revving it it continues to knock rapidly for a few seconds then it goes back to the slower knock it has at idle, it idles really low here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nec-_...e_gdata_player

  2. #2
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    either a lifter DIED.... like is about to fall apart...

    or thats rod knock... but it sounds to clicky to be rod knock...
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    how do you check lifters? do the camshafts have to come out or is there a way around that

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    Take the valve cover off and look for any rocker arms that may be loose and then try to push down on each lifter really hard. They shouldn't compress at all, so if they do or feel soft at all, you need to replace them. Check all the valve springs and make sure none of them are broken. Also check for any scarring on the cam lobes as well as check for any metal shavings in the bottom of the head. Good luck!
    "it doesn't give anyone the right to trash the room, trash the property, climb on their roof, ride garbage cans down their stairs, take a shit in their pool, do burn outs in their parking lot, change the lettering on their signs, break bottles in their parking lots, pull your engines and leave anti freeze and oil in their lot, do burnouts on the room carpet with pocket bikes or any of the other destructive fucking idiotic shit that has happened over the years.

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  5. #5
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    ^^^ Yes

    And I would say drain your oil and look for metal shavings there too.
    Chris
    90 GSX
    BR stage 3 2.0L, AEM EMS, FP3052

  6. #6
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    Okay I had a day off from work today so I changed some lifters and redid the timing and it still had the noise so I moved the cam shaft angle sensor thing and I could get it to idle decently with no knock but then when I try to rev it it will bog down and if I just hold the gas on the car dies. when it was knocking I could still rev it.

  7. #7
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    use a screwdriver as a stethoscope to determine where the noise is comming from.
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  8. #8
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    I use a screwdriver.
    With the engine running....
    Place the metal end on various parts of the engine and the handle end on your ear.

    I found out my bearings in my alternator were going bad by using this method.

    You can also hear your lifters as well. Kinda neat to just go around the engine bay and place the screw driver on various things to "hear" how they are working on the inside.

    It's not a tell all, but you can pinpoint where noises are coming from when the engine is running.

    Make sure you use a long screwdriver and lots of common sense while doing this.
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    thanks for the tip but I actually already did that earlier today and we found out the noise was coming from the left side of the engine so I replaced the lifters on that side, but the noise is no longer the problem I got it to go away by adjusting the cas the problem I have now is that when I give the car gas it will bog down and die.

  10. #10
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    ...uh what did you do that caused that aweful noise to go away.. if it wasnt mechanical... you didnt fix it..
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    To make the noise stop I adjusted the cas onthe left side ofthe motor in the Haynes manual they call it the crankshaft and camshaft position sensor and I turned it one way like I posted earlier and the knock will go away the car will idle and my air fuel ratio will even go to the green but I can't rev it if i turn it back the other way the knock will come back, do I have a faulty cas? Is it just out of time?

  12. #12
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    Sounds out of time.. Or a really terrible exhaust leak...

    Just set the crank on the mark and check the gear marks up top... It will run a tooth off, but it shouldnt sound like that, just rev a lil slower...
    95 AWD-auto
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  13. #13
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    Because you can eliminate the knock by adjusting the cas, then that knocking is combustion from very retarded timing. It is so loud because of the header you are running. It could be either mechanical, since you just did a head gasket, or it could be ignition,,or both.

    First, since you just did a head gasket, make sure your timing marks for the cams and crank are still lined up. Then make sure you have 5* base timing set with your cas and a timing light.
    1994 Eagle Talon: Full interior, Stock motor with hks 272 cams and evo3 16g
    12.345@112.54

  14. #14
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    I am still struggleing to locate a timing light I can use but I started the car up today and I noticed it was smoking from the o2 sensor so I replaced it with a spare when I took the sensor out it was all black on the end so I assumed it was bad I put in my spare but it's still smoking, could a bad o2 sensor be causing my problems? the spare I put in was from a 91 mine is a 90 do I need to buy a brand new specific sensor?

  15. #15
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    either O2 will work. Most times they will be black. No it won't make it run that badly. Have you checked the timing marks? If they are ok, set you timing with the cas. It will be close to the middle of the adjustment. Was the cam angle sensor removed for the head gasket replacement? If it was, you may be 180 out of phase.
    1994 Eagle Talon: Full interior, Stock motor with hks 272 cams and evo3 16g
    12.345@112.54

  16. #16
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    why would the o2 be smoking though exspecially right after i put a new one in. yes the cas was taken out and I did try rotating it 180 degrees but it didn't help the only thing different I noticed that was when I went to rotate it 180 degrees my cams moved a bit too, I don't know if this is normal?

  17. #17
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    step 1... quit starting the caR, its getting angry..

    step2... set the crank to its mark...

    step3.. check the cam marks..

    step 4.. remove the CAS.. it has a notch on the body, and a mark on the propellor... line those up, re-install the cas, and as said above, line it up about in the middle of its adjustment..

    im guessing your timing is off at least 2 tooths... There is a trick to putting the belt on, you learn it after a couple of timing belts...
    95 AWD-auto
    EVO3 / 450cc / 255pump / Hard pipes / MLS-ARPs / 3" c-b .

    Precision Billet Converter 3500 stall/ IPT end clutch kit/ IPT valve body.....All on the way....

    DSM LINK is next..

  18. #18
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    I've yet to get my hands on a timing light But went to check the ignition timing and noticed I didn't even have the lower timing belt cover with the marks on it so I'm guessing that the ignition is out of time if it doesn't even have the cover for it ( idiot that had it before me) I'm hoping this is my problem! Now to find a damn timing light :P

  19. #19
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    Okay so we set the ignition timing with a timing light and the knock went away because it was off and then was running better but still rough, I drove it to the end of the driveway and back and the knocking came back. We did a leak down test and it said it might be leaking from the intake but I checked everything and the only hose the gave any pressure was the one on top of the housing where the turbo pipes go in. and it was like 6 and was suppose to be at 20. I can't find anything!

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