Buschur Racing Technical Section For Evo 8/9 Product Installation

[Jrod@Buschur]

Buschur Racing Double pumper fuel system. EVOLUTION 8 and 9.

Contents:

(1) Fuel pump assembly with twin HO fuel pumps
(1) SS high flow 10 micron inline fuel filter
(5) Fuel injection hose clamps
(1) Pressure switch assembly

Installation instructions:
1. Remove factory fuel pump assembly.
(This part needs to be returned to Buschur Racing immediately to have your core fee refunded)

2.The plastic feed line must be removed. This line attaches to the factory fuel pump assembly and runs along the drivers side of the tank, under the car and to the steel feed line that goes to the engine bay.

3.Re-install the double pumper kit into the tank. The fitment is a little tight but you will find if you put the float assembly in at an angle and then gently bend the two fuel socks it will drop right in. You can install the steel retainer ring and tighten the nuts up that hold the assembly in the tank at this time.

4.The fuel hose assembly with the "Y" in it now needs to be installed. Simply run the single hose down from the top of the tank where the factory feed line was. (Be careful not to get dirt in the fuel line when you are feeding it under the car) After you have it fed under the car you will pull it back towards the two outlets on top of the double pumper assembly. Before pushing the two hoses onto the outlets slide a fuel injection clamp onto each hose. Pay attention when you are feeding the hose under the car, there is a longer hose and a shorter hose on the "Y". The longer hose goes towards the front of the car. Tighten the hose clamps at this time.

5.The feed line that was fed under the car now gets attached to the fuel filter. The fuel filter has an in and out. There is an arrow on the filter, the arrow points towards the outlet. Install a fuel injection clamp on the fuel feed line you fed under the car, slide the filter on and tighten the clamp.

6.The steel factory feed line points "up". You will need to gently twist the line so it points at between the 9 o'clock and 10 o'clock position. This will make it easy to point the fuel filter directly to it. The filter needs nothing to hold it in place, if you feel the need to hold it you can place a heavy duty wire tie around it. Once this line is twisted you can install the rubber line on the filter and slide the hose onto the factory feed line. ****Very important!!!! The factory feed line has a metal rib on it. When feeding the new rubber hose onto it make sure to feed the rubber hose PAST the rib about a 1/2". You will install TWO fuel injection clamps on this line, one on each side of the rib.

7.At this time the mechanical portion of the install is done. Be sure to go over each and every clamp to insure they are all very tight. Double check to make sure non of the hoses are in a bind or rubbing on anything.

8.The last step is to install the pressure switch. This is simple. Simply "T" into a good boost/vacuum source under the hood. Be sure to install clamps on the vacuum lines.

9.The wire with the inline fuse goes directly to the positive side of the battery.

10.The other wire you will run back to the fuel pump and attach it to the red wire.

11.The black wire coming out of the fuel pump assembly is a ground.

When the installation is complete the car will start and run just like it did stock. All of the factory relays and wiring will work just like stock. The secondary pump is activated by boost. To test it you can apply boost to the hose at the pressure switch. The easiest way to hear it is to leave the engine off, apply pressure to the switch and listen for the pump to come on.

For added safety and piece of mind you can install any 12v warning light. A small light can be installed that will tap into the 12v line going to the pump. When the pump activates this warning light will light and let you know the pump has been triggered.

The pump can also be wired in with a relay and triggered from a stand alone engine management if you so desire.

[Jrod@Buschur]

This write up was done by EvoM user: sabastian458. I asked him if he would mind if we used it over here on the site and he said not at all so this is something I would like to add as there is a project im working on for instructions for our products. This will just be an addition to that.

Ok, this is my first HOW TO write up, so please bare with me. I will try to get the pix up when I can.

This is a HOW TO for installing the Buschur Racing catch can, with a slight change verses the way it is described on Buschur's website. The catch can can be found here: https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...fc1fed9f6d1cd3
And the retension spring here:https://secure.buschurracing.com/cat...fc1fed9f6d1cd3

***EDIT*** Looking at the can's mounting flange, it does appear that it got twisted just slightly. This should fix my clearance issue. Also, as of now, Buschur has the O-ring for the tube instock and being shipped with each kit.

Tools Needed:
10mm wrench
1/4 in socket
10mm socket
12mm socket
rachet for above sockets
medium flat head screw driver
medium pry bar
small hammer
razor blade knife
small plyers (I didnt need these for my clamps, removed by hand)
1 shop rag
shop light or flash light

Parts Needed: (*marked items I sourced and will be listed as "sourced" in write up.)

Buschur Racing catch can
Buschur replacement dipstick tube
2 sizes of vac hose (came with can)
press in aluminum vac nipple
k&N mini filter (with filter fluid and 1 clamp)
*8 small hose clamps (mine had 1/4in screws for tightening)
*2ft of 1/4in vac hose
*6in of 3/8 vac hose (or fuel line either will work)
*2 O-rings for dipstick
*1 O-ring for dipstick tube
*1 tube of silicone, I used the copper stuff
*1 bolt. what ever size to cap off 3/8 vac hose.


Once you have aquired all these parts, we can begin with the disassembly.

DISASSEMBLY:

Step 1: Using the 10mm socket, remove both 10mm bolts holding the fuel pressure solenoid on to the side of the intake manifold. Disconnect the wire connector. (I completely removed, vac lines and all.) Set the solenoid aside for later, discard the 2 bolts.

Step 2: Locate the 2 relays on the fire wall, they are to the right of the ABS pump, just to the left of the intake manifold. Using the 10mm socket (or the wrench if you cant get the socket in place) to remove the 2 10mm bolts for the relays. The relays will not move, set aside the 2 bolts for later use.

Step 3: Locate the the mounting bolt for the oil dipstick tube. Aprox. 2in from top of tube. Remove the 12mm bolt with the 12mm socket. Set bolt aside for reuse.

Step 4: Once the bolt in Step 3 has been removed, remove the oil dipstick. To do so, twist in a clockwise direction the tube 70-90 degrees. Then pull vertically until it is removed. (If it does not come right out, twist counterclock wise and clock wise while pulling it up.) Set dipstick aside, and discard oil dipstick tube.

Step 5: Locate the PCV valve. Follow vac hose from valve to intake manifold. Use the small plyers (I only had to use my fingers) and remove the clamp at that location and the 1 at the PCV valve as well. Remove this vac hose and set aside for reuse.

Step 6: On the right front of the valve cover there is a vac port. Remove the line from that port. NOTE: If the line is routed back into the preturbo intake pipe, you MUST plug that hole in the preturbo pipe. If you have a small filter on this port, remove the filter and discard.

Step 7: Locate the PCV valve again. Using the shop rag, fold several times. Place rag between the valve cover and the PCV valve. Using the medium pry bar, pry against the PCV valve using the valve cover as leverage. (the rag must be between the pry bar and the valve cover) Once the valve starts to come out, it wil twist upward, use your hand to hold in place.

Step 8: Once the valve is out, there will be a small aluminum adapter left inside the valve cover. Using the medium flat head screw driver as a wedge, NOT as a pry bar, remove the adapter. Put the side face of the flat head against the side of the valve cover, then slide until it makes contact with the adapter, off center of the adapter. (There will be a small lip, the screw driver should be between the lip and the valve cover.) Once contact is made, use the small hammer to tap the screw driver. The adapter should start to come out slowly. Alternate sides that you tap on. Discard both the PCV valve and the adapter.

INSTALLATION:

Step 9: Remove the supplied K&N filter. Locate the filter fluid. Follow directions for oiling the filter. Set filter and fluid aside for future use.

Step 10: Locate the supplied dipstick tube. Using the sourced O-ring, install on to bottom of tube. (I also applied a very small amount of copper silicone to the very bottom portion of tube arround the O-ring)

Step 11: You will need the shop/flash light. Carefully, install the supplied dipstick tube into the block. DO NOT pinch the O-ring. You will have to twist and push downward on the tube to get it to go in. It will require much more force that when you removed it.

Step 12: Once the tube is in place, twist it until the mounting tap is in the proper place against the intake manifold. Reusing the bolt that was set aside in Step 3, bolt tube into place tightly.

Step 13: Locate the supplied aluminum press in vac nipple. (I applied a very small amound of copper silicone arround the press in portion of the nipple) Place the press in part of the nipple in the hole left by the aluminum adapter from Step 8. Use the small hammer to GENTLY tap the nipple into place. Make sure it is flush.

Step 14: Locate the larger of the 2 supplied vac hose. Using 1 of the small sourced hose clamps, install this vac hose to the bottom port of the Buschur catch can. (Top of can is where the mounting tap is welded on.) This hose will connect to the new supplied dipstick tube.

Step 15: Test fit the can with hose into place. The can's mounting tap should be mounted into place using the left relay's mounting bolt from Step 2.

Step 16: Once the can is in place, measure and mark the vac hose to connect to the new supplied dipstick tube. Leave enough length on the hose for a full contact and for engine movement. (I just held the hose with my fingers, then cut)

Step 17: Remove the catch can. Using the razor blade knife, cut the hose.

Step 18: Using a source hose clamp, install onto hose on bottom port of the can. Reinstall the can in the same location as in Step 15. Besure to connect the vac hose onto the new supplied dipstick tube. Slide the source hose clamp into place and tighten. (You should now have 2 hose clamps on this vac hose. 1 securing the hose to the bottom of the can, 1 securing the other end onto the dipstick tube)

Step 19: Using the sourced 3/8 vac hose, install 2 sourced hose clamp. Secure 1 end of the vac hose to the bottom port of the catch can, then secure the other end to the aluminum nipple that was installed in Step 13.

Step 20: Locate the small factory vac hose removed from the PCV valve in Step 5. Using the razor blade knife, cut this hose into a straight length of 2.5 inches. Use the source bolt and slide into the vac hose. Locate the 2 clamps from Step 5 and reinstall onto the vac hose, 1 onto the bolt, the other slide onto the other end of the hose.



Step 21: Reinstall the bolt and vac hose from Step 20 into the port on the intake manifold. Same port from Step 5. This should cap off the vac/boost leak we created.

Step 22: Locate the supplied vac line. Should be the only line left of the 2 sent from Buschur. Install 2 sourced hose clamps, 1 to either end of the hose. Secure 1 end of this hose to the top side port of the catch can, the secure the other end of the hose to the right front port of the valve cover, same port from Step 6.

Step 23: Locate the fuel pressure solenoid. Mount the solenoid onto the mounting point of the relay on the right of the catch can. Use the other bolt set aside from Step 2. The relay should side horizontally, the port of the solenoid that connects to the intake manifold should be on the left and the port with the filter looking part should be on the right.



Step 24: Using the sourced 1/4in vac line, connect the intake manifold port to the fuel pressure solenoid's left port. Route the line in a way that there are no kinks or where the hose will be pinched. Cut the hose. Using the remaining hose, connect the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel pressure solenoid's right port. Reconnect the wire connector.

Step 25: Locate the K&N filter. Inspect the filter to make sure the fluid has seeped into all parts. (no white filter showing) Then install the filter, using the hose clamp from the package, onto the top most port of the catch can.

Step 26: Locate the factory dipstick that was set aside in Step 4. Reinstall into new dipstick tube. Reinstall either zip strip or retaining spring for dipstick.



Step 27: Remove all tools and items from under the hood.Start vehicle and check for any vac leaks.


Now some of my install differs from Buschur's. I just felt more comfortable with more hose clamps and mounting the solenoid differently. I also ran into a clearance issue with the catch can. It is against 1 of my brake lines that comes out of the ABS pump. I believe if the mounting tab on the can was to be moved to the left, off center by about 1/4-1/2 inch, the clearance on the brake line with be fixed. Also the catch can kit didn't come with a new O-ring for the dipstick tube. Also it is still unclear as to what I am suppose to do with the port on the intake manifold, I assumed I blocked it off. None of the issues I ran into are big and all were easily over came.

Here is the picture of the ABS line and the can.

There you have it. The completed installation thanks to a contributing member of the Evo community.

[Jrod@Buschur]

BUSCHUR RACING

Inline Manual Boost Controller Instructions

Thank you for purchasing the Buschur Racing Inline Manual Boost Controller. We have put together these instruction to ease the installation of your new part. This should take about 20 minutes to install.

Your new boost controller will arrive to you preset from Buschur Racing at the lowest boost setting possible. It will be close to the preset pressure on your wastegate spring.

Each 1/4 turn, indicated by the 4 lines on the boost controller, will increase boost 1 psi. It is NOT possible to run less boost than how the boost controller comes pre-set. Do not turn the boost controller until you have installed it and verified how much boost you have.

When adjusting the boost controller, pull the vacuum line off the outlet end, adjust the controller and then re-install the vacuum line. If you leave the vacuum lines attached and adjust the controller, the controller will turn back to it's original setting.

In order to increase your boost the boost controller would be turned clockwise. Of course if you want to lower the boost it would be counter clockwise.

WARNING: If the adjustment knob is backed out to far the boost controller will come apart. If this does happen be sure the ceramic ball bearing and spring have not fallen out.

If you have any questions or concerns you can reach Buschur Racing Monday-Friday 9a.m.–6p.m. EST at 440-839-1900.

Thank you,
Buschur Racing

*PLEASE NOTE*
Buschur Racing asks that you do NOT disassemble this boost controller. If you do important parts may be lost or something inside may be messed up. If the boost controller becomes difficult to turn over time you can spray a little shot of WD40 in between the two parts of the boost control body. Thank you for reading this.

[Jrod@Buschur]

Thank you for purchasing the Buschur Racing Shifter Bushing kit for your Mitsubishi Evolution. The install is pretty straight forward and can be completed within an hour. The bushings that you will be replacing are located on top of the transmission right under the brake master cylinder. In order to get to these bushings the battery will need to removed. Lets get started!

STEP 1: You will need to remove the positive and the negative terminals from the battery. On the top of the battery remove the nuts that hold it into place and remove the battery from the car. Next you will need to remove the 2 nuts and bolts that hold down the tray. There is a 10mm bolt that holds the solenoid into place on the back of the tray. The tray should now be able to be removed.

STEP 2: You should now be able to see the cables on top of the transmission. The cotter pins on top of the bushing will need to be removed. This can easily be down with a pair of needle nose pliers. Once the cotter pin is removed you should be able to remove the cable from the pin. (If needed the cables can be removed from their stock mounting points to make the removal of the cable end from the pin a little easier)

STEP 3: The removal of the stock rubber bushing is quite simple. It can be done with a screwdriver. Pushing on one side of the bushing with a screwdriver will allow it to come out of the cable end. Slide the new Buschur Racing bushing in place and install the E-Clip (included) to secure the new bushing. (NOTE: The side of the bushing that the clip is installed on should face either up or to the outside. The E-Clip can be set in place with a pair of pliers or a small hammer.

STEP 4: Use a bit of lubricant or never seize to reinstall the cotter pin. This will allow and easier installation or removal later on. Re-install the cable with the new bushing on the pin ( add never seize to this pin as well). If there were any washers left on the pin from the removal make sure those are removed before the installation of the new bushings. With the addition of these new bushing no washers will be required for the install. Just install the cotter pin back in place, and your finished.

STEP 5: Re-Install the battery, and tray.

Enjoy!!!!

[Jrod@Buschur]

**DO NOT KINK SHIFTER CABLES**
Thank you for purchasing the Buschur Racing shifter bushing kit for you Mitsubishi Evolution 8 or 9. The install is pretty straight forward and can be completed within an hours’ time. The bushings that you will be replacing are located on the top of the transmission right under the brake master cylinder. In order to get to these bushings the battery will need to be removed. Let’s get started!

STEP 1: You will need to remove the positive and the negative battery terminals. On the top of the battery, remove the nuts that hold it into place and remove the battery from the car. Next you will need to remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the battery tray down. There is a 10mm bolt that holds the solenoid into place on the back of the tray. The battery tray should now be able to be removed.

STEP 2: You should now be able to see the cables on top of the transmission. One cable has a cotter pin and the other has a clip which needs to be removed by spreading outwards. The cotter pin on top of the bushing will need to be removed. This can easily be done with a pair of needle nose pliers. Once the cotter pin is removed you should be able to remove the cable from the pin. (If needed the cables can be removed from their stock mounting points to make removal of the cable end from the pin a little easier.)

STEP 3: The removal of the stock rubber bushing is quite simple. It can be done with a screwdriver. Pushing on one side of the bushing with a screwdriver will allow it to come out of the cable end. Slide the new Buschur Racing bushing in place and install the E-clip (included) to secure the new bushing. (Note: The side of the bushing that the clip is installed on should face either up or to the outside.) The E-clip can be set in place with a pair of pliers or a small hammer.

STEP 4: Use a bit of lubricant or never seize to re-install the cotter pin. This will allow an easier installation or removal later on. Re-install the cable with the new bushings on the pin. (Add never seize to this pin as well.) If there were any washers left on the pin from the removal make sure those are removed before the installation of the new bushings. With the addition of these new bushings no washers will be required for the installation. Just install the cotter pin and clip back into place and you’re a finished.

STEP 5: Re-install the battery tray and battery.

[Jrod@Buschur]

Thank you for purchasing the Buschur Racing air filter kit for you Mitsubishi Evolution. We have put together these instructions to ease the installation of your new parts. This should take about twenty minutes to install.

Step1: Disconnect the negative terminal on your battery. After you have done this unplug your mass air flow sensor harness from the mass air flow sensor.

Step 2: Remove the top of the air box, take out the filter, remove the screws that secure the airbox into the car.

Step 3: Loosen the clamps that holds the mass air sensor onto the black rubber intake tube, lift the entire assembly out of the engine bay.

Step 4: Get a ratchet along with a 10mm socket to unbolt the mass air sensor from the air box.

Step 5: Remove all of the brass colored metal pieces in the engine bay that are associated with the stock air box as they are no longer needed. You can relocate the stock oem boost control solenoid where you would like. Keep the bolts you will use one of them later in step seven.

Step 6: Mount the mass air flow sensor to the new adapter plate using the supplied bolts and nuts that you removed from your stock air box in step four. Be sure to put the gasket in between the mass air flow sensor and the adapter plate. Before totally securing things, locate the "L" shaped bracket that you received with your air filter kit.

Step 7: The "L" bracket gets bolted onto the lower most bolt facing the firewall. There is a hole on the frame rail when attached correctly will be located directly inline with the hole on the "L" bracket. Fasten the bracket to the frame rail using one of the bolts that were removed in step five. This holds the air filter securely in place so it does not move around.

Step 8: Fasten the mass air flow sensor back to the air intake tube using the clamp that was removed in step three.

Step 9: Attach the air filter to the new adapter plate that you mounted to the mass air flow sensor with he provided worm clamp using your flathead screwdriver.

Step 10: Make sure the "L" bracket that you attached in step seven is mounted securely to the frame rail.

Step 11: Plug the mass air flow sensor harness back in.

Step 12 : Re-attach the negative battery terminal.

We hope this installation has gone smoothly. If you have any question’s or concern’s please do not hesitate to call us at the shop. The phone number is 440-839-1900. We are in the office Monday through Friday 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. EST.

[Jrod@Buschur]

Thank you to Buschur Racing Forum member Monochrome for his detailed instruction and great contribution to the technical section for the installation of the shifter base bushing kit.

Okay, now say hello to your shifter assembly. Take your 12mm and remove the 4 gold bolts which hold it to the frame.



You'll notice, the shifter cable towards the drivers side gets in the way of one of the bolts. You'll need to remove the cotter pin which holds that cable. Grab your pliers and pull it out. Manly hands should be able to remove it without the pliers.




Slide the cable off the mount, push it down and around to the back side of the shifter like so.




You should have easy access to that 4th bolt now.




Alright, now take your 8mm socket and press out the metal insert inside the bushing.




With the inserts removed you can now easily remove the rubber bushing.




BR gives you 8 pieces. 2 per mount. One goes on top of the other like so.



The bushing should hug the plastic assembly. I found it easiest to do the 2 front bushings before the rear. Slide the bottom bushing into place, lower the shifter assembly onto it, set the top bushing over it, insert the 12mm bolt and thread it in just a couple turns. Leaving it loose makes it much easier to install the others.

Tighten everything down, put the interior back together, and go for a drive.

Aren't those shifts much more crisp? Thanks Buschur!

[Jrod@Buschur]

These images are for those installing our Buschur Racing quick release harness bar for the Evo 7/8/9.


Upper Bolt Assembly:





Lower Bolt Assembly: